Punto de acceso inalámbrico Omada AC1350, con inyector PoE, garantía de 5

I've used the plug-in wireles extenders with mixed results. I finally broke down and ran Cat 6 cable under the house and up through a wall to the attic, finally mounting the AC1350 on a hallway ceiling. The big advantage is with the injector you can place this up to 100M from your router and place it in the spot with no coverage (the wireless plug in extenders are usually placed half way between the router and the dead zone).It is important to get the right kind of Cat 6 cable. It needs to be all copper and CMP (plenum) for below floors and above ceilings or CMR (riser) if running through walls. Fire code stuff you should read about since the "injector" is injecting voltage into the cable.Once I got the cable run and the clips attached installation was fairly easy but the mobile …

I'm renting a townhouse with cat6 ran to the ceiling on all 3 floors for in ceiling access points.The router that ATT provided with their fiber service (a BGW320-500) is fairly strong and can make it's way up from the basement closet (where the fiber connection is) all the way to the top floor to the point where it is "usable" but speed definitely drops down to sub 100mbps, and when several devices are using data on the top floor, all the dropped packets can slow the entire network down.Enter this device, which I bought as a trial to use the built in cat6 cable, and possibly buy another 1 or 2 with an OC200 controller (or run the controller software on hardware I already have running) and just disable the BGW320-500's antenna all together. The BGW320-500 doesn't put out PoE, so I needed …

I'm a network engineer. I usually work with Cisco enterprise gear, some HPE/Aruba, Ruckus, a bit of Cisco Meraki (not a fan). I usually laugh at gear like TPlink, UniFy/Ubiquity etc. No, I probably will not ever recommend or deploy this TPlink Omada stuff at a customer site for any application. Maybe a normal office space for someone with no budget and need WiFi for casual purposes or for customer hotspot convenience.I got seriously pissed at my home WiFi system when I incorporated a bunch of cheap Chinese smart home products into my network (smart bulbs and electrical receptacles) and my UniFi system couldn't handle them. Sure - it was the junk bulbs most likely, but I wasn't about to buy all Phillips Hue or some other overpriced solution. I tried updating the controller software and the

Shortly after setting up our WiFi in our new home, it became obvious that having our WiFi router in the basement where the cable modem is located wasn't going to cut it. The cement walls absorbed much of the WiFi signal and, even in our small home with a 40'x28' footprint, we had dead spots. I needed to move our WiFi access to the attic.I bought two TP-Link Omada access points, this Omada AC1350 dual-band router for my wife's and my phones, tablets, and laptops, plus an Omada N300 unit to support our Internet of Things (IoT) and guest WiFi users.Both units are powered by Power-over-Ethernet adapters in the basement connected to a new, Mikrotik hEX small-business router. Using a separate router allows me to segregate our guest users and IoT devices (smart home stuff, Kindles, Alexa …

First of all, let's get this out of the way. There's a review that states:"You can’t program this device (create and ssid and password protect your WiFi) without downloading their app that logs all the sites you visit TP Link shares this information with their 'partners' per their privacy policy..."Let me explain what I did and let you be the judge. I installed one. (I ordered two and they're both installed now.) Then I discovered its IP address using Advanced IP Scanner. (I also could have used IPScan or looked at a status page on my router.) At no time did I use a mobile device for anything, let alone download an app. From there, I its (really GOOD) GUI interface, turned off its DHCP and set the IP address I wanted it to be, using Firefox (I could also have used Chrome, Opera, or …

I'm a bit of a nerd and I run a home server, so I wanted to split my network up into different subnets using VLANs. My only holdup was wifi devices since I couldn't risk bricking one of my access points using alternate firmware. These are out-of-the-box capable of setting VLANs to separate wifi networks, which is a commodity (aside from using open source firmware). You can look at Ubiquiti, but they are more costly than these. At $60 a pop for the EAP225 this was an easy buy and I have had almost no issues setting it all up. If you have a hardware controller with them, then its even easier.The hardest part was getting the controller software running in a VM, the dependencies took a bit to get right, but after that was up and running. I could have used the phone app to do it all, but I …

I got my first AC1350/EAP225 way back in 2018 during a Black Friday sale. I got a second one this week to see how well the mesh networking feature works. For the price, I am really impressed. Before buying, I was concerned because one other reviewer said his mesh network collapsed when he powered down the PC that hosted the controller software, but that hasn't been a problem for me so far. I shut my home PC down over night, and noted that both APs were up and serving traffic just fine when I woke up this morning (before turning on my PC to run the controller software again). My second AP isn't connected to anything other than a garage wall outlet, so I know it's working without the controller running when I'm on the other end of my property surfing YouTube on a laptop. When I fired up my …

I bought one of these for the opposite end of my ranch-style house, since my router's wifi was weak at that distance. I like that it's POE, so I only had to run a CAT5e cable to it and hook it to my POE switch (although it comes with its own POE power injector which is a nice bonus). The setup was fairly straight forward using the app to get it set up initially, and later using the built-in web admin page through a browser for additional changes.It puts out a decent signal, but I was a bit disappointed in that it didn't quite make it from its location to my office, which is on the same level, but about 50 feet away with about 3 hollow (stud/drywall) walls between. My office seems to be somewhat of a dead zone in the house due to its layout, so I ended up buying another for near my office,